Oddor Meanchey Province
Introduction 
Oddar Meanchey is one of the smallest provinces of Cambodia located in the far Northwest bordering with Thailand. Its name means “Victory Province” and the provincial capital is called Samraong. This area was formerly known as Phanomsok, a province of Thailand, which was ceded to French Indochina in 1906, and now remains a part of Cambodia. This province is also a recent creation that was carved out of Siem Reap Province, which the government did not control for much of the 1980s and 1990s.
The countryside is covered by the Dangrek Mountains (or escarpment, as they are sometimes called), which was an optimal shelter for the Khmer Rouge to hide. It is a very remote province that has been a notorious place, because this is where he nastiest of the nasty Khmer Rouge made their last stand. The diabolical Pol Pot and his seemingly bloodthirsty henchmen, Nuon Chea, Ta Mok, Son Sen and Khieu Samphan holed up here for the last years of the Khmer Rouge’s existence (another of the henchmen, Ieng Sary, already worked out a surrender and defection deal with the government in 1996).
Pol Pot died mysteriously here, after a supposed power struggle within the power elite (he had Son Sen and his family murdered) and after a controversial show trial. The debate focused on whether it was real or just a sham staged for the outside world to try to legitimize remaining Khmer Rouge figures. The trial took place in the power centre of the Khmer Rouge, the village of Anlong Veng. Pol Pot died mysteriously after he was sentenced to house arrest and the international community began real efforts (for the first time ever) to capture and put this butcher on trial. His henchmen had more than enough reasons to believe that he wasn’t dead at that point, because a Pol Pot on trial, as the ringleader most responsible for the genocide wrought upon his fellow countrymen, would probably have tried to shift portions of the blame (rightfully in the case of these guys) to the rest of the power elite.
The Khmer Rouge kept fragmenting after that and Nuon Chea and Khieu Samphan worked out a surrender-amnesty deal with the Cambodian government and Ta Mok (also called “The Butcher”) was subsequently captured and is still awaiting a trial in Phnom Penh. As of March 2000, the United Nations and the Cambodian government finally seem set to come up with an agreement on putting the top surviving members of the Khmer Rouge regime on trial in Cambodia, with assistance from and in a partnership with the International Community. Stay tuned though, as this has been a real political football with seemingly more concern for one-upsmanship and personal gain than justice for the dead and surviving victims of Khmer Rouge brutality.
The international border is 14.5 km from the circle in Anlong Veng (Anlong Veng-Choam-Choam- Srawngam and O Smach-Chong Jom). There are plenty of tanks and tank shells to look at along the way and also a strange site in the form of a boulder that had Khmer Rouge soldiers carved out of the sides of it- they have all been decapitated since government forces took control of Anlong Veng. Anyway, it’s an interesting little ride to a low-lying part of the Dangkrek Mountains. The road is in fairly good shape with the exception of the climb up a rocky hillside near the border.
Geography
Oddor Meanchey province is 6,158 square kilometres big. It’s located in the far Northwest of the country and is bordering to the North with a lengthy borderline to Thailand, to the East with Preah Vihear, to the West with Banteay Meanchey and Siem Reap to the South. In the North the province consists of the re-known Dangkrek Mountains, which are more or less the hill foods of the massive mountain range (the real Dangkrek Mountains) coming from Thailand. There is a nice interesting wildlife sanctuary called Kulen Promtep in the Southeast of the province. The rest of the province is an agricultural used strip, where the illegal logging of the 1980s and 1990s shows its rampant face.
Population
The current population in this province is about 102,835 people or 0,7% of the country’s total population (14,363,519 person in Cambodia, 2007, provincial government data), with 52,650 male and 50,185 female. The population density is therefore 16,7 people per square kilometre.
Climate
The country has a tropical climate - warm and humid. In the monsoon season, abundant rain allows for the cultivation of a wide variety of crops. This year-round tropical climate makes Cambodia ideal for developing tourism. Travellers need not to fear natural disasters such as erupting volcanoes or earthquakes, and the country is not directly affected by tropical storms.
Climate: Cambodia can be visited throughout the year. However, those plans to travel extensively by road should be avoided the last two months of the rainy season when some countryside roads may be impassable. The average temperature is about 27 degrees Celsius; the minimum temperature is about 16 degrees. December and January are the coolest months, whereas the hottest is April.
General information about the provincial climate:
- Cool season: November- March (22c-28c)
- Hot season: March- May (27c -35c)
- Rainy season: May - October (24c-32c, with humidity up to 90%.)
Economy
The province’s economy is 93% based on farming and the remaining other 7% are based on fishing and trading. Because of its border with Thailand, the international trade is also booming and becoming another important sector of the province’s economy. There is several developing plans from province based NGO’s, the Ministry of Foreign Affairs from Thailand and Cambodian government itself. The economy and infrastructure of the province was sustainably destructed during the Khmer Rouge stand and needs therefore a whole new stabile backbone.
How to get there
Bus/Share Taxis:
If you wish to go to Anlong Veng you best come from Siem Reap via Major Road No 64 (distance: 142km). The time of journey vary depending on the season between 4-6hours. The easiest transport mean is a share taxi, which will charge you around US$4-5.
Anlong Veng is also connected by reasonable roads to the provincial capital Samraong (US$4) in the West and Prasat Preah Vihear to the East.
Coming from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap: (Bus)
Several guesthouses, travel agencies and bus companies offer daily bus transport between Phnom Penh and Siem Reap. It is a smooth 314 km, 5-7 hour trip. The bus makes at least two stops along the way (at Skun and Kampong Thom). All charge the same, $3.50 (14,000R) one way. The earliest buses depart starting at 6:30AM and that last buses between noon and 1PM. Neak Krorhorm Travel :
Phnom Penh office at the corner of Street 110 and Sisowath Quay. Siem Reap office opposite the Old Market
GST:
Phnom Penh bus station near the southwest corner of Phsar Thmey (Central Market).
Phnom Penh Public Transport Co.:
Phnom Penh bus station near the southwest corner of Phsar Thmey (Central Market).
Coming from Phnom Penh to Siem Reap: (Share Taxis)
Local shared taxi: 25,000 riel per person. Departs from southwest corner of Central Market in Phnom Penh. 5-8 hours Private taxi: US$38-$45 for the whole car. 5-6 hours. Due to rising fuel costs, prices are in flux.
Motorbike Info to Anlong Veng:
The road to Siem Reap is in good condition, but driving in Cambodia is still challenging in the extreme, and should be attempted only by experienced riders. Speeding taxis, slow cows, and oblivious children are the norm. The trip calls for a dirt or road bike, no smaller than 250cc. It can be made in a day, but two days with a layover in Kampong Thom is a more relaxed alternative and allows time to visit the pre-Angkorian ruins of Sambor Prei Kuk.
Leave Phnom Penh via the ‘Japanese Bridge’ and follow National Highway No 6 75km to the North. You’ll reach the Skun intersection (Skun is known for its exotic foods - check out the fried spiders, turtle eggs and more at roadside stands.), where you have to turn left and follow NH 6 to Kampong Thom - about 2-3 hours. In Kampong Thom, the Arunreas Hotel (062-961294), Stung Sen Royal Hotel (012-309495) and Mittapheap Hotel are all decent mid-range places. Arunras Guesthouses and Restaurant next to the hotel is the place to eat cheaply. From Kampong Thom to Siem Reap the trip takes another 2 hours. From there you’ll have to search the Major Road 64 to Anlong Veng. This will take you another 6h on bumpy unpaved dirt roads through monotonous dry forest changing sometimes to jungle sections.
Going to Samraong: (Share Taxis/Pick Up/Motorbike)
Heading west on the NH 6 from Siem Reap you’ll reach an intersection after 51km. Turn right and you enter after some 100m a small town called Kralanh (US$1.5 from Siem Reap or Sisophon). From here you take another pick up or share taxi to the North on laterit-paved and bumpy Minor Road 68 (US$2-3, 2-3hours, 65km). Sometimes you can find early taxis leaving to Samraong from Siem Reap (US$4-5).
Where to eat
General Information for Samraong:
As Samraong isn’t big at all you will easily find the central market with several food stalls around offering saucepans of pre-cooked food for around 2,000-3,000 Riel a serve. Unless the pots are still hot, it’s a good idea to have them hear your servings up again so that you don’t get more than you bargained for like getting sick. If you would like to go more for some sophisticated food, check the Santepheap restaurant (one of the best in town), where you might find some proper dishes, but don’t expect Western food.
The best restaurant in town is only open for breakfast and lunch. A friendly English- and French speaking Cambodian gentleman and his family run it. They can make up most Thai Khmer dishes that you may wasn’t and also serve a good breakfast of eggs, French bread and coffee.
General Information for Anlong Veng:
The restaurant scene in Anlong Veng is similarly limited as in Samraong. There are several local food stalls around the central roundabout offering some local dishes at very reasonable prices – mostly its typical Khmer and Chinese noodle dishes.
Where to stay
General Information for Samraong:
Actually Samraong has never been a big touristy spot so you’ll just find some very basic guesthouses clustered near the dirty little market, which is advantageously located right next to the taxi station.
Rikreay guesthouse:
This is a simple but clean place with a bed, mosquito net, fan (for a part of the night, as electricity may shut down) and share bathroom going for 10,000 riel.
Meanchey Guesthouse:
The Meanchey Guesthouse is likely the most conclusive one among these with some NGOs visiting. This place is similar to the Rikreay, only the power stays on for twenty-hours, which means your fan should stay on all night. A room with a share bathroom, net and fan is US $ 4 and a double room with a simple bathroom inside of it is $10 - expensive for what it is but you are paying extra for the power. The US$ 4 room is so to say the better deal.
General Information for Anlong Veng:
In fact that there aren’t that much tourists staying overnight there are 3 very basic guesthouses in Anlong Veng. The most convenient one is the Reaksmey Angkor Guesthouse in the North of the small town. You will find quite clean rooms with mosquito net and a bathroom. The price is around 15,000-25,000Riel.
Shopping
As it is quite common in Cambodia even small towns, such as Samraong have at least one marked. You may also find a market in Samraong centre, which is a busy area with local shops dealing the local daily consumer products, like fish, fruits, vegetables, meats and packed products. Most of the food and drink shops are surrounding the market.
The Cultural Site Of Khmer Rouge (Tamu House)
THE CULTURAL SITE OF KHMER ROUGE (TAMU HOUSE) The place displayed statues depicting the lifestyle and troop arrangement of Khmer Rouge during the period of their str
Border Check- Pint Of Ou Smach
BORDER CHECK-PINT OF OU SMACH Located at the cmmen border of Cambodia-Thailand in 41-kilometer distance from the provincial town by Road No 68. Ou Smach is the man-mad
Kratie Province
Kratié is one of Cambodia’s eastern provinces with less population, who make their lives on the riverbanks of the Mekong. Beyond the riverbanks it is a remote place with almost no population and thick-forested areas to calm down. The provincial capital is also called Kratié and lies also on the banks of the mighty Mekong River, which emboss the province from the North to the South. The stretch of the river around Kratié town is home to a group of rare sweet water Irrawaddy dolphins. Therefore the dolphins are the main tourist attraction of the province and the town. The river also has hundreds of green island, and circling water, which are also attracting some tourists.Kratie town is sleepy but picturesque with sandbars and big islands out front and bends in the river. Unlike in many towns around Cambodia, the war years were fairly kind to the French architecture and the roads, at least in the town itself. There are some nice-looking homes of French and Khmer style scattered about, adding to the pleasant feel of the place. You’ll also find a bustling market which is a great place to watch frogs being skinned (and escaping first through the holes in the nets), sample some delicious foods (such as freshly grilled corn cakes) and generally take in rural Cambodian life.
The rare freshwater Irrawaddy dolphins make their home in the Mekong River, just north of Kratie. With only around 120 remaining, they are surely worth a visit.
Whether you are just on a trip seeing the river towns along the Mekong or taking a full circuit trip around the east and northeast, Kratie is a nice place to spend a night or two. The river scene of Kratie has a beautiful river boulevard with dozens of snack and drink stands in the late afternoon and evening, making this a nice spot to chill out and watch the people parading by. There are also a few big concrete decks along the river scene. The river road is a great place for a stroll or jog. Enjoy the dramatic sunsets over the Mekong.
Geography
Kratie province is 11,094 square kilometres big, which is categorized into several areas such as 83% forest, agricultural land 8% and red land 0.5% in Snoul district. It’s located in the East of the country and is bordering to the North with Stueng Treng, to the East with Mondulkiri, to the West with Kampong Thom and to the South with Kampong Cham. The province consists mainly of thick forested area, where you still can see the 1970-75 bombings due to big craters in the countryside, some filled with water. You also may find the typical plain wet area for Cambodia, covering rice fields and other agricultural plantations, even if it’s just a small percentage of agriculturally used land concerning the rest of Cambodia. The province features the biggest river of the country (approx. 140km of it), the mighty Mekong with its small rapids and critically endangered Irrawaddy dolphins.
Population
The current population of Kratie is approximately 290,000 and the population density is 26 people per sq.km. Roughly 70% of the people live along the river, whereas 30% live in the mountainous area. There are seven types of tribes in Kratie: the Phnorng, the Kouy, the Mil, the Khonh, the Steang, and the Thamoun.
Climate
The country has a tropical climate - warm and humid. In the monsoon season, abundant rain allows for the cultivation of a wide variety of crops. This year-round tropical climate makes Cambodia ideal for developing tourism. Travellers need not to fear natural disasters such as erupting volcanoes or earthquakes, and the country is not directly affected by tropical storms.
Climate: Cambodia can be visited throughout the year. However, those plans to travel extensively by road should be avoided the last two months of the rainy season when some countryside roads may be impassable. The average temperature is about 27 degrees Celsius; the minimum temperature is about 16 degrees. December and January are the coolest months, whereas the hottest is April.
General information about the provincial climate:
- Cool season: November- March (18-26c)
- Hot season: March- May (27c -35c)
- Rainy season: May - October (26-34c, with humidity up to 90%.)
Economy
In an effort to entice foreign investment, the province is offering generous business concessions to those who wish to invest in rubber plantations inside the country. Kampong Cham and Kratie have an abundance of red soil and water resources, which create ideal conditions for the cultivation of rubber.
Generally, the people make their living from rubber and cashew nut plantation, fishing, rice farming and producing a rich array of fruits in fertile orchards, including durian, rambutans and lychees.
How to get there
Bus:
Coming from Phnom Penh, Kratie town is accessible via NH No 7 (348km). There are several bus companies, such as PPPT, Hour Lean and Sorya going to Kratie or passing by while they are heading to Stung Treng or Rattanakiri. The easiest way to get there is to buy a ticket at the central bus station southwest of the central market. Sorya goes twice a day, at 7am in the morning and 12am noon. The trip will take around 6-7hours and costs approx. US$6.
Share Taxis:
Share taxis are going frequently and for sure faster to your desired destination. Departing opposite of the central bus station behind the gas station you’ll find one of these or a minibus. The price comes at US$10-12. It may happen that you have to change the taxi in Kampong Cham as some taxis just go there and back. Others will already wait for you to take you to Kratie or further up.
Bullet Boat:
There are several alternatives to get to Kratie, the easiest of which is by the bullet boats that ply the Mekong River. If you are coming from Kampong Cham and don’t have a motorcycle, the bullet boat is an easy and comfortable option.
The bullet boat from Phnom Penh isn’t departing anymore to Kratie, as the road conditions are wonderful and most of the people go with the quick and affordable bus. Although it is possible to take one bullet boat from Kampong Cham or back departing early in the morning around 7am. The boat pier in Kampong Cham is directly in front of the Mekong Hotel. The trip takes just three hours and costs US$7.
The Kratie-Stung Treng bullet boat trip only runs during the rainy season when the water level in the Mekong is sufficient enough to allow the boats to get through the numerous stretches of shallow rapids and various other obstacles on this stretch of the river. The trip upriver to Stung Treng takes around 6-7 hours, with the trip back down to Kratie, going with the current, taking about 4 hours. The price is around US$8.
Motorcycle Touring Info:
Phnom Penh to Kratie
If you are going to Kratie from Phnom Penh, the road to Kampong Cham is excellent (National Highway No 6, after the round about in Skun National Highway No 7), the road from Kampong Cham to the Snoul (also Mondulkiri) junction isn’t that great, but it’s definitely doable. The last section taking you to Kratie from Snoul was recently new paved and remains in a “so-to-say” perfect condition. This magnificent Highway No 7 led until the Lao border in the country’s rough North.
Snoul to Mondulkiri
If you are heading to Sen Monorom from Kratie, proceed to Snoul and pass through the main town area. You will come to a fork in the road where you stay to the left. Follow this about 7 km and you will come to a four-way junction where you turn left. This laterit-paved highway takes you to Sen Monorom. The road is nice and level having been cut by logging companies for their trucks.
Fuel and food are available in Snoul town and at the four-way junction. Security on these stretches is not a problem.
Kratie to Stung Treng
The National Highway No 7 led through a nice remote countryside, where you rarely meet other vehicles. There are several small villages near the highway where you can gas up your vehicle or pop into one of the tiny basic-need stalls to eat something.
Where to eat
General Information:
There is a typical market right one block into the town centre, which has the usual range of cheap food stalls with Cambodian, Vietnamese and Chinese dishes. You may also have cheap food on the riverfront during the evening when lots of small food stalls set up. The place is awesome at sunset overlooking the Mekong with the sunset right in front.
Red Sun Falling:
This place has fine furnishings, good music and a small bookstore included. The menu unites a small selection of Asian food and some Western dishes, including excellent homemade brownies. It’s one of the most crowded places by night.
Mlop Duong Restaurant:
Coming from Lao you might be starving for some new experience referring to the local Cambodian food. So this place comes as a garden restaurant and offers you Khmer specialities completing with a local live band. Do not wonder about the time between you order and the time you may go for the tasty food, the cook takes his time.
Heng Heng Hotel & Restaurant:
This place has some very good food and some Western dishes, with an English menu to boot. Some staff speaks English and it is directly situated on the riverfront.
Apsara Guesthouse & Restaurant:
The food is okay and they can make a few Western dishes as well. The manager speaks English.
Golden Star Restaurant:
It’s a simple place with big ambition. It features decent Khmer food and beer girls, with a small late-night dance venue thrown in as well.
Mekong Restaurant:
This is quite a reliable little place offering an English menu with a fair range of local dishes, as well as some interpretations of “barang” favourites such as “thom long jean”(French fries). Simple Khmer fare located just in front of the 30 December Hotel.
30 December Guesthouse & Restaurant:
They have an English menu and simple, cheap dishes.
Where to stay
Oudom Sambath Hotel: (tel: 012/965944)
The Oudom Sambath Hotel is set in a convenient location 150m North from the boat landing stage and is enhanced with modern amenities. All the guestrooms at the hotel have all the comforts expected in a hotel in its class (2 stars) to make guests feel at home. This place is one of the most comfortable ones in town and comes with fully equipped rooms; cable TV, AC, hot water, fridge and Western bath. They also offer smaller rooms with fan and bathroom at a lower price. Prices from US$23 to 35.
Re Lais Du Chlong Hotel Kratie:
This 2 stars hotel is located right next to the riverside just 100m far from the pagoda. All the guestrooms at the hotel have all the comforts expected in a hotel in its class to make guests feel at home. Convenient location, a dedicated staff and first-rate facilities make this hotel a favourite among travellers. The rooms have cable TV, AC, hot water, fridge and Western bath. Prices from US$77.
Santepheap Hotel: (tel: 072/971537)
A place you can find different rooms at different prices. It is a kind of all-rounder in town, with cheaper fan-cooled rooms in the main building with the added extra of hot water. It’s located just across the river road from the boat landing. It’s the sister hotel of the Mekong Hotel in Kampong Cham town. It features rooms with a river view, a big Western bath, twin beds, TV and a/c for US$ 15 a night. The fan rooms are US$ 7, but have no TV.
Heng Heng Hotel & Restaurant: (tel: 072/971405)
Located just across from the river, this place has a nice second-floor terrace and rooms with a nice river view. The staffs are very friendly and some speak English. The rooms are nice enough and have a Western bath, TV and fan for US$ 7. The same room with a/c is US$ 12. There is also a good restaurant on the premises on the ground floor.
Star Guesthouse: (tel: 072/971663)
One of the best budget deals in the whole town. Nice clean rooms with a Western bath and fan for US$ 5. There is a second-floor terrace overlooking the market and part of the river down the street. The owner’s sons speak English and are very helpful to give information on Kratie.
Apsara Guesthouse & Restaurant:
These rooms are small, with thin walls and a share bath. The place is kept fairly clean and comes at 8,000 riel for one bed or 10,000 riel for two beds, that’s okay. There is a restaurant on the premises.
Hai Heng Guesthouse:
It’s close to the Mean Guesthouse. With very low ceilings, a place for vertically challenged people, 10,000 riel per night.
Phnom Meas Guesthouse; Soksan Guesthouse; Nyta Guesthouse:
These three places are near each other just south of the market. They are all similar, clean, have a bathroom in the room and a fan. They are good value at US$ 3 a night.
Mean Guesthouse:
Similar to the Apsara Guesthouse with rooms going for 5,000-7,000 riel per night (basic).
Shopping
The Kratie market is right in the thick of things, just a block from the river. It’s the usual all-purpose variety with local shops dealing the local daily consumer products, like fish, fruits, vegetables, meats and other packed products. There are two small night market areas. One is across the road from the northern side of the market. The other is on the street and just east of the Heng Heng Hotel. There are a couple of photo shops near the pack of guesthouses just west of the market.
Irrawaddy Dolphins
Irrawaddy Dolphins About fifteen to twenty of these rare freshwater dolphins make their home on a beautiful stretch of the Mekong River near a small set of rapids.
Phnom Sambox Temples
Phnom Sambok Temples By heading north from the Globe circle you also reach the hilltop temples of Sambok village. Following the stairway up, you will come to three
Wat Preah Vihear (Kratie)
Wat Preah Vihear (Kratie) Golden lions guard the gates that lead to peaceful and heavily shaded temple grounds. It bears the name of the internationally famous Preah
Sambor Town
Sambor Town For a nice ride through the countryside hugging the Mekong River, you can head north past Phnom Sambok and past the dolphin site. About 24 km from the Glob
Wat Sray Sahn-tah-rah-boh
Wat Sray Sahn-tah-rah-boh It’s a big name for a small temple on the river road.
Chruoy Rey
Chruoy Rey How to go: 3 km (15mn) From Provincial Town. Location: Description: Historical Sites and Buildings, Location: Kantring Village, Kaoch Trong Commune
Dolphin Habitat
Dolphin Habitat How to go: 15 km (15mn) From Provincial Town. Location: Description: Nature & Wildlife Preserves, Location: Kampee Village, Sambok Commune,
Kam Py Resory
Kam Py Resort How to go: Location: Description: Is the great natural resort providing shelter to Dolphins. When we travel along the National Road No.7 to the
Phnom Preah
Phnom Preah How to go: 30 km (1h) From Provincial Town. Location: Description: Nature & Wildlife Preserves, Location: Chrauy Thmar Leu Village, Chhloug Commun
Phnom Sam Bok Resort
Phnom Sam Bok Resort How to go: Location: Description: Is the natural and historical resort, locates at Thmor Kre Commune, Kratie District in 11-Kilometer dista
Phnom Sopor Kaley
Phnom Sopor Kaley How to go: 30 km (1h) From Provincial Town. Location: Description: Historical Sites and Buildings, Location: Chrauy Banteay Village,
The 100-Column Pagoda
The 100-Column Pagoda How to go: Location: Description: Located at Sam Bor District in 36-kilometer distance, North of the provincial town by the National Ro
Wat Vihear Kuk
Wat Vihear Kuk How to go: 36 km (1h:30mn) From Provincial Town. Location: Description: Historical Sites and Buildings, Location: Sambour Village, Sambour Comm
Wat Vihear Lao
Wat Vihear Lao How to go: 36 km (1h:30mn) From Provincial Town. Location: Description: Historical Sites and Buildings, Location: Sambour Village, Sambour Comm
Tamu House
Tamu House How to go: Location: Description: The place displayed statues depicting the lifestyle and troop arrangement of Khmer Rouge during the period
-Oddar Meanchey
- Oddar Meanchey Border Check-Point Of Ou Smach How to go: Location: Description: Located at the common border of Cambodia-Thailand in 41-kilometer
Waterfall of Cham Pey
Waterfall Of Cham Pey How to go: Location: Description: Is the natural resort locating at 35-kilometer distance from the provincial town along the road No 68